Quesa-Birria Tacos-style

Slow-braised beef brisket in a dried-chilli broth, dipped in corn tortillas, griddled with melted Oaxaca cheese and served with the consommé for dipping. Proper Mexican comfort food at home.

Ingredients

• For the birria and consommé: 680 g beef brisket, cut into 5cm chunks
• 907 g top round, cut into 5cm chunks
• 680 g cross-cut beef shank
• Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
• Neutral oil, for searing
• 9 guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
• 1/2 white onion, peeled and roughly chopped
• 8 cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 chipotle peppers in adobo, plus a spoonful of the sauce
• 1/4 cup (60 g) tomato paste
• 3 tbsp (45 ml) apple cider vinegar
• 1 tbsp (10 g) chicken bouillon powder (Knorr brand preferred)
• 1/2 tsp (~2 g) freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp (~2 g) ground white pepper
• 1 tbsp (10 g) beef bouillon powder (Knorr brand preferred)
• 1 tbsp (12 g) light brown sugar
• 2 tsp (7 g) smoked paprika
• 2 tsp (3 g) dried oregano
• 1/2 tsp (~1 g) dried thyme
• 1/4 tsp (~1 g) ground cloves
• 1/4 tsp (~1 g) ground cinnamon
• 1 tbsp (10 g) kosher salt, or to taste
• 1/2 tsp (~2 g) ground cumin
• 4 bay leaves
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) neutral oil (canola, avocado, etc.)
• For the salsa: 8 guajillo chiles
• 4 chiles de árbol
• 4 Roma tomatoes
• 4 large tomatillos, husks removed and rinsed
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1 chipotle in adobo, plus a spoonful of sauce
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste
• 1 tbsp (10 g) kosher salt, plus more to taste
• For assembly: 12 10cm corn tortillas (2 per taco)
• 1 large white onion, finely diced
• 1 bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped
• 300 g Oaxaca cheese, shredded (or full-fat low-moisture mozzarella)
• Limes, cut into wedges

Method

1. Prep the chillies. Stem and seed the guajillos. Toast the chiles de árbol in a dry pan over medium-low for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Blanch the guajillos in boiling water for 30 seconds, then turn off the heat and steep 5 minutes until softened.

2. Sear the meat. Season the brisket, top round and shank generously with salt and black pepper. Heat a Dutch oven over medium-high with a thin layer of neutral oil. Sear the meat in batches, 1-2 minutes per side until well-browned. Transfer to a tray.

3. Build the braise. Drain the guajillos and blend with the onion, garlic, chipotles in adobo, tomato paste and vinegar until smooth. In a small bowl, whisk together the chicken bouillon, both peppers, beef bouillon, brown sugar, paprika, oregano, thyme, cloves, cinnamon, salt, cumin and bay leaves.

4. Braise. Return all the meat to the pot, add just enough water to cover, and bring to a simmer. Skim off any impurities that rise. Stir in the chilli blend, the spice mix and the neutral oil. Cover and reduce to low. Braise for 3½ hours until the meat shreds easily with a fork. Rest off the heat for 15-20 minutes.

5. Skim and reserve. Spoon the orange fat that has risen to the surface into a small bowl — this is what gives the signature colour when you dip the tortillas. Chop the meat into bite-sized pieces and keep warm in a small pan with a splash of the braising liquid.

6. Make the salsa. Toast the remaining guajillos and chiles de árbol in a dry pan until fragrant. In the same pan, sear the Roma tomatoes and tomatillos until the skins blister. Blend the toasted chillies, charred veg, garlic, chipotle in adobo and vinegar with a splash of water to loosen. Season to taste with salt and vinegar.

7. Crisp the tortillas. Heat a flat-top or cast iron pan over medium. Dunk each corn tortilla in the reserved birria fat, then toast for 30-45 seconds per side until lightly charred and crisp at the edges.

8. Build the quesabirrias. Spread a thin layer of shredded Oaxaca on one side of a tortilla and let it melt on the hot pan. Pile on a generous amount of the chopped birria and a spoonful of salsa. Fold over and serve immediately with lime wedges and a ramekin of the warm consommé for dipping.

Notes

• Adapted from Joshua Weissman’s ‘The Best Authentic Quesa Birria Tacos at Home’.

• Three serving options: classic birria tacos (no cheese), quesabirrias (with cheese melted inside), or mulitas (cheese crisped between two tortillas, sandwich-style).

• Braising takes about 3.5 hours — plan ahead. The braising liquid IS the consommé; serve in a ramekin alongside for dipping.

• Reserve the fat that rises to the surface during braising — dunking the tortillas in it before griddling is what gives the signature orange-red colour.